Recognizing Fuel Pump Failure
June 11, 2018
BY BLAIR LAMPE / ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED JUNE 4, 2018 / NATIONAL AUTOMOTIVE PARTS ASSOCIATION /
The fuel pump is the heart of the fuel injection system. Without it, fuel won’t leave the tank, and your engine won’t run. Although it’s by no means a regular occurrence, fuel pump failure is not unusual in older vehicles. Unfortunately, it’s not always the easiest part to replace. The good news is there are usually a few signs alerting you to impending failure, so you can fix the problem before you’re stranded.
Heart of Gas
The fuel pump is often (but not always) located inside the fuel tank itself, and attaches to a float and electrical connections that update you on how much fuel is left in the tank. It sucks up fuel and sends it through lines to the injectors, which meter out the proper quantity for combustion. The pump must meet manufacturer specifications for fuel volume. If it fails to meet these standards, you run into all sorts of problems starting and driving.
Pump and Circumstance
Note that most of these symptoms on their own might have other causes, but if you see one or more together, go to a mechanic for a conclusive diagnosis.
If the fuel pressure is low, you might have trouble starting your car — it may crank longer than normal before firing up, or you might have to cycle the key on and off several times to prime the necessary pressure. Once it runs, you might get a rough idle or stuttering while driving up hills or upon acceleration. It’s possible it could stall out completely, or it might just result in a noticeable misfire.
You may find that your engine temperature is higher than usual, as it struggles to keep up with uneven fuel supply. Occasionally, a failing pump will cause an engine to surge, because it’s no longer capable of consistent volume. You might even hear the fuel pump itself struggling, which sounds like a whining or loud buzzing noise coming from the tank. The last clue might be at the gas station: Pumps on their way out reduce efficiency, which means your mpg will suffer, and you’ll have to stop to fill up more often.
Special Delivery
To diagnose a bad fuel pump, you’ll need a special tool for pressure testing. This connects to a designated valve on the fuel line, and will show you what the PSI in the system is when the engine is on. There are other reasons the PSI might be off (such as an obstruction or a leak), but a good mechanic will be able to put all of the symptoms and data together to condemn the pump definitively.
Now for the tricky part — a few vehicle models have external or easy-to-access pumps, but a great many pumps are located inside the tank … which means the tank has to come down to change it. It’s a headache, especially if you’ve already got a lot of fuel in there weighing things down. Unless you have the know-how and a garage full of the right equipment, this is one task that’s best left to the professionals at your local NAPA AutoCare.
When changing a fuel pump, choose a good replacement. It doesn’t have to be made by the manufacturer, but it sure better match the specs and be from a trusted brand, or you’ll find yourself back in the same predicament in a few years.
Check out all the fuel & emission system parts
Photo Credit: Blair Lampe
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Many years ago I was given a 1st Gen S10 PU as partial payment of a friend’s debt to me. The catch was it needed a fuel pump and he couldn’t afford to replace it, plus the repair shop gave him til 4pm to get it outta there or they’d junk it. It had been there for many many months. I went and towed it home. I really don’t like PU trucks, but something’s better than nothing. It was a long bed, V6, 5 speed stick shift which is my preference
I wasn’t in the mood to drop the tank that was full, to get at the pump which to me a gas pump inside a fuel tank is just a dumbass idea.
Eventually after looking at the truck for awhile, I decided to get a few Jack’s and 2X4 X 8′ boards and lift the bed off. I removed the nuts& bolts then lifted the bed over the tires which was super easy, then removed the pump from the tank, put the new one in. I backed the truck back under the bed, lowered it and rebolted it back together. Total time was only about an hour and was very easy.
I drove the truck a lot over the next 8-10 years (it grew on me) and really enjoyed it until a head gasket went.
It being old and the cost, time and effort just didn’t seem worth it so I sold parts off it and sold the cab and frame to a guy who was building a 48 Chevy PU Street Rod who told me the long bed frames were a direct match for his 48 PU that also allowed a Chevy V8 to fit right in.